Making amigurumi is a great hobby for enjoying your free time and making sweet gifts for loved ones. If you are looking for a hobby where you can make gifts that will make your loved ones happy and make full use of your free time, amigurumi may be just for you. Amigurumi dragon making can be an excellent hobby for you if you are just starting out with amigurumi and do not have previous experience with amigurumi and knitting.

 

Английские аббревиатуры и русские эквиваленты

ch: chain (в.п)
mr = Magic ring (КА)
sc: single crochet (sc)
inc = increase (пр)
dec = decrease (уб)

ABBREVIATIONS

R : Row
Rnd : round

ch: chain
mr = Magic ring
sc: single crochet
inc = increase (2 sc in the next stitch)
dec = decrease (single crochet 2 stitches together)
BLO: Back loop only
FLO: Front loop only
( )* 6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated

st, sts : stitch, stitches

Finished size: 115mm long x 75mm at the widest diameter.

R1: Using Body Colour, 6SC into a magic ring. (6)

Continue working in the round.

R2: 2SC in each st around. (12)

R3: *SC in next st. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (18)

R4: *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (24)

R5: *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (30)

R6: *SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (36)

R7-14: SC in each st around. (36)

R15: *SC in next 5 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (42)

R16: *SC in next 6 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (48)

R17-27: SC in each st around. (48)

R28: *SC in next 6 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (42)

R29: *SC in next 5 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (36)

R30: *SC in next 4 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (30)

Start stuffing the head firmly and continue stuffing as you go.

R31: *SC in next 3 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (24)

R32: *SC in next 2 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (18)

R33: *SC in next st. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (12)

R34: *SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (6)

Finish stuffing the head.

Tie off, sew closed and weave in loose end.

The head should have a pear shape with clear definition between the muzzle and the brow. The muzzle should be narrower, with a sharp angle on the brow, and a nice round bulb for the back of the head.

You’ll find assembly instructions at the end of the pattern (Part 4).

THE EYES

Make 2 – Finished size: 40mm wide.

 

R1: Using Eye Colour, 6SC into a magic ring. Join with a SS. (6)

R2: Ch1. 2SC in each st around. Join with a SS. (12)

R3: Ch1. SC in first st. 2SC in next st. * SC in next st. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS. (18)

R4: Ch1. SC in first 2 sts. 2SC in next st. * SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. Join with a SS. (24)

Tie off, leaving a thread (30cm) for sewing.

SMILE LINE IN THE EYES: Insert hook at any st on R2. Using Smile Line Colour, start with slip knot on hook, leaving a tail about 10cm long. Surface SS in next 7 sts. Tie off and cut thread about 10cm long. Pull end through same st to back of eye. Tie threads together in a sturdy knot. Make sure the eye stays flat when you tie the knot. You can trim the ends short, or leave them long and sew them into the head to conceal them when attaching the eye to the head. Do not pack the loose ends under the eye when sewing – they will make it bulge from the head. The eye should lay flat against the head.

 

 

THE HORNS

LONG CURVED HORN

Make 2 – Finished size: 50mm tall x 25mm at the widest point.

 

R1: Using Horn Colour, 5SC into a magic ring. (5)

Continue working in the round.

R2: 2SC in next st. SC in rem 4 sts. (6)

R3: SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 3 sts. (7)

R4: SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 3 sts. (8)

R5: SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 3 sts. (9)

R6: SC in next 5 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 3 sts. (10)

R7: SC in next 6 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 3 sts. (11)

R8: SC in next 7 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 3 sts. (12)

R9: SC in next 8 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 3 sts. (13)

Change to Body Colour on the last stitch of Row 9. The horn is complete; now it’s time to add a rim around it. Work over your Horn Colour end in Row 10 to secure it.

R10: Working into front loops only, SC in next 9 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 3 sts. (14)

Cut Horn Colour and stuff the loose end inside the horn.

R11: Working into both loops as usual, SC in each st around. (14)

SS in next 2 sts to taper the end of your row. Tie off, leaving a thread (30cm) for sewing.

Rim complete. Flip the rim up.

 

The horn is curved. When you stuff your horns, be careful to preserve its curved shape, and make sure both horns are the same.

 

SHORT POINTED HORN

Make 1

Finished size: 20mm tall x 20mm at the widest point.

R1: Using Horn Colour, 6SC into a magic ring. (6)

Continue working in the round.

R2: *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (8)

R3: *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (10)

R4: *SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (12)

SS in next 2 sts to taper the end of your row. Tie off, leaving a thread (20cm) for sewing.

Stuff the horn firmly. It should be round, with a pointed tip.

THE NOSTRILS

Make 2 – Finished size: 20mm long x 20mm at the widest point.

R1: Using Body Colour, 8SC into a magic ring. (8)

Continue working in the round.

R2-6: SC in each st around. (8)

R7: *SC next 2 sts tog*. Repeat all around. (4)

Tie off, leaving a thread (20cm) for sewing.

To shape the nostril correctly, the front half needs to be collapsed into the back half. Thread your sewing thread onto a needle and sew the hole closed. Push the needle through the center of the last row, through the nostril, and out through the magic ring. Tug it firmly to pull half of the nostril inside.

 

You can also use the back of a crochet hook or a pencil to push it. Push it until Row 7 touches Row 1, and your hollow little nostril is complete. Leave the loose end for sewing.

 

THE CHEEKS

Make 2 – Finished size: 20mm wide.

R1: Using Cheek Colour, 6SC into a magic ring. Join with a SS. (6)

R2: Ch1. 2SC in each st around. Join with a SS. (12)

Tie off, leaving a thread (30cm) for sewing.

Weave in the starting thread securely and trim it short.

Finished size: 135mm long x 100mm at the widest point.

IMPORTANT: The body must be the correct size in order to fit the belly covering. Do not stretch or over-stuff it.

 

R1: Using Body Colour, 6SC into a magic ring. (6)

Continue working in the round.

R2: 2SC in each st around. (12)

R3: *SC in next st. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (18)

R4: *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (24)

R5: *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (30)

R6: *SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (36)

R7: *SC in next 5 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (42)

R8: *SC in next 6 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (48)

R9-22: SC in each st around. (48)

R23: *SC in next 6 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (42)

R24: *SC in next 5 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (36)

Start stuffing the body firmly and continue stuffing as you go.

R25-34: SC in each st around. (36)

R35: *SC in next 5 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (42)

Tie off, leaving a long thread (60cm) for sewing.

The increases in the last row have widened the opening, creating a lip. Use this lip to make the body blend onto the head when assembling your dragon (more info in Assembly section at the end of the pattern).

THE BELLY COVERING

Finished size: 205mm long x 125mm at the widest point.

 

Note: Do not use the invisible decrease on the belly covering, use a normal decrease.

The turning chains (ch1 and ch2) do not count as stitches throughout this section. Always work your first stitch into the first available stitch from the previous row.

R1: Using Belly Colour, 3SC into a magic ring. Ch1, turn. (3)

Place a stitch marker into your magic ring to mark it.

R2: 2SC in each st across. Ch1, turn. (6)

R3: SC in first st. 2SC in next st. *SC in next st. 2SC in next st.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (9)

R4: SC in first 2 sts. 2SC in next st. *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (12)

R5: SC in first 3 sts. 2SC in next st. *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (15)

R6: SC in first 4 sts. 2SC in next st. *SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat once. Ch2, turn. (18)

When working rows 7-13, place stitch markers at the beginning of Row 8, the end of Row 10, and at the beginning and end of Row 13.

R7-13: DC in first 3 sts. HDC in next 2 sts. SC in next 8 sts. HDC in next 2 sts. DC in rem 3 sts. Ch2, turn. (18)

At the end of row 13, only chain 1, then turn.

R14-19: SC in each st across. Ch1, turn. (18)

R20: SC in first 5 sts. 2SC in next st. *SC in next 5 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (21)

R21: SC in first 6 sts. 2SC in next st. *SC in next 6 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (24)

R22- 32: SC in each st across. Ch1, turn.  (24)

R33: SC in first 6 sts. SC next 2 sts tog. *SC in next 6 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (21)

R34: SC in first 5 sts. SC next 2 sts tog. *SC in next 5 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (18)

R35: SC in first 4 sts. SC next 2 sts tog. *SC in next 4 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (15)

R36: SC in first 3 sts. SC next 2 sts tog. *SC in next 3 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (12)

R37: SC in first 2 sts. SC next 2 sts tog. *SC in next 2 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (9)

R38: SC in first st. SC next 2 sts tog. *SC in next st. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat once. Ch1, turn. (6)

R39: *SC next 2 sts tog.* 3 times. Ch1, turn.  (3)

R40: SC all 3 sts tog. (1) Do not tie off.

Now it’s time to crochet all around the edge.

This row is going to be worked all the way around the edge of the belly, placing your stitches into the space between each row. If you stretch your workpiece, the little holes will be more visible.

For clarity, this example is crocheted with a contrasting colour.

Starting in the space between row 39 and 40, ch1. Work 1SC into the space between each row for 27 rows.

By now you’ll have reached the rows that begin with chain 2 and end with a DC. On these rows, work 1 SC into the space between the rows, and 1 SC around the post of the DC (or around the chain 2).

When you reach row 10 of the belly (where you placed a stitch marker), SC around the post of the DC, HDC in next space. DC in next space. 2TRC in next space. (DC, ch2, SC) in next space.

Continue working SC in each space between the rows.

When you reach row 1 of the belly, do not work a SC into the magic ring.

When you reach row 8 of the belly (where you placed another stitch marker, SC around the starting chain. Ch2, DC in same space. 2TRC in next space. DC in next space. HDC in next space.

The Belly Covering should look like this so far.

Important: Note how the chain 2 on either side of the Belly Covering creates sharp corners. This shaping is important. If the edge doesn’t make this shape, adjust your tension.

Continue working SC in each space between rows until the belly is completely bordered, then join with a SS and tie off, leaving a thread (1.5m) for sewing.

 


THE FINS


SMALL

Make 1 – Finished size: 15mm tall x 25mm at the widest point.

 

R1: Using Fin Colour, 6SC into a magic ring. (6)

Continue working in the round.

R2: *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (8)

R3: *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (10)

SS in next 2 sts to taper the end of your row (check for consistency). Tie off, leaving a thread (20cm) for sewing.

The loose end from the magic ring can be stuffed inside the fins.

When you flatten the fin, make sure the increases fall on either side of the fin to make a tidy triangle.

MEDIUM

Make 2 -Finished size: 20mm tall x 30mm at the widest point.

 

R1: Using Fin Colour, 6SC into a magic ring. (6)

Continue working in the round.

R2: *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (8)

R3: *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (10)

R4: *SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (12)

SS in next 2 sts to taper the end of your row. Tie off, leaving a thread (20cm) for sewing.

LARGE

Make 4 – Finished size: 25mm tall x 35mm at the widest point.

 R1: Using Fin Colour, 6SC into a magic ring. (6)

Continue working in the round.

R2: *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (8)

R3: *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (10)

R4: *SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (12)

R5: *SC in next 5 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat. (14)

SS in next 2 sts to taper the end of your row. Tie off, leaving a thread (20cm) for sewing. Do not sew the fins closed or stuff them.

Make 2 Front Legs and 2 Back Legs.

PUFF STITCH (AND CHANGING COLOUR)

(YO, insert hook, draw up a loop) 4 times. YO with new colour, draw through all 9 loops on hook. Ch1. Puff Stitch and colour change complete.

BACK LEGS

Finished size: 100mm long x 30mm at the widest point.

 

R1: Using Paw Colour, 6SC into a magic ring. (6)

Continue working in the round.

R2: 2SC in each st around. (12)

R3: *SC in next st. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (18)

Change to Body Colour at the end of row 3. Do not cut the Paw Colour.

R4: Using Body Colour, SC in 1st st. *Change to Paw Colour, then Puff Stitch in next st. Change to Body Colour then SC in next st.* – three times. Cut Paw Colour, leaving a short tail (10cm). SC in rem 11 sts around, working over the Paw Colour tail for a few stitches to secure it. (15SC and 3 Puff Stitches)

  

R5: SC in each st around. When working into the Puff Stitch, skip the ch1 part of it, and work into the Paw Colour part of it. This will cause the SC to hide some of the excess Paw Colour. (18)

R6-23: Continue working in the round. SC in each st around. (18)

Before working rows 24 & 25, it’s time to stuff the leg. The bottom of the leg is the foot. The top of the leg is the hip (or shoulder on front legs).

IMPORTANT: Stuff the first half of the leg firmly, and the second half of the leg softly. Keep in mind that when you assemble your dragon, you’ll want the limbs to blend onto the body as if they’re part of the creature. The limbs should not look like sausages attached to the sides of the body.

See the images below.

R24: *SC in next st. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (12)

R25: *SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (6)

Pinch the upper part of the legs to flatten them. Make sure the middle toe lines up with the crease created when you pinch the leg.

Tie off, leaving a thread (50cm) for sewing. Sew the last row closed.

FRONT LEGS

Finished size: 110mm long x 30mm at the widest point.

 

R1-23: Same as Back Legs.

R24-25: SC in each st around.(18)

Stuff and shape in the same manner as Back Legs.

R26: *SC in next st. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (12)

R27: *SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (6)

Pinch the upper part of the front legs to flatten them. Make sure the middle toe lines up with the crease created when you pinch the leg.

Tie off, leaving a thread (50cm) for sewing. Sew the last row closed.

THE TAIL

Finished size: 120mm long x 75mm at the widest point.

R1: Using Body Colour, 4SC into a magic ring. (4)

Continue working in the round.

R2: 2SC in next 2 sts. SC in rem 2 sts. (6)

R3: SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 3 sts. (7)

R4: SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next 2 sts. SC in rem 3 sts. (9)

R5: SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 4 sts. (10)

R6: SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next 2 sts. SC in rem 4 sts. (12)

R7: SC in next 6 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 5 sts. (13)

R8: SC in next 6 sts. 2SC in next 2 sts. SC in rem 5 sts. (15)

R9: SC in next 8 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 6 sts. (16)

R10: SC in next 8 sts. 2SC in next 2 sts. SC in rem 6 sts. (18)

R11: SC in next 10 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 7 sts. (19)

R12: SC in next 10 sts. 2SC in next 2 sts. SC in rem 7 sts. (21)

R13: SC in next 12 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 8 sts. (22)

R14: SC in next 12 sts. 2SC in next 2 sts. SC in rem 8 sts. (24)

R15: SC in next 14 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 9 sts. (25)

R16: SC in next 14 sts. 2SC in next 2 sts. SC in rem 9 sts. (27)

R17: SC in next 16 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 10 sts. (28)

R18: SC in next 16 sts. 2SC in next 2 sts. SC in rem 10 sts. (30)

R19: SC in next 18 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 11 sts. (31)

R20: SC in next 18 sts. 2SC in next 2 sts. SC in rem 11 sts. (33)

R21: SC in next 20 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 12 sts. (34)

R22: SC in next 20 sts. 2SC in next 2 sts. SC in rem 12 sts. (36)

R23: SC in next 22 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 13 sts. (37)

R24: SC in next 22 sts. 2SC in next 2 sts. SC in rem 13 sts. (39)

R25: SC in next 24 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 14 sts. (40)

R26: SC in next 24 sts. 2SC in next 2 sts. SC in rem 14 sts. (42)

R27: SC in next 2 sts. *2SC in next st. SC in next 5 sts*. Repeat 5 more times. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 3 sts. (49)

R28: SC in next 2 sts. *2SC in next st. SC in next 6 sts*. Repeat 5 more times. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 4 sts. (56)

Tie off, leaving a thread (60cm) for sewing.

When stuffing the tail, make sure to put small amounts in first, to ensure that the tip of the tail is stuffed as well. Stuff the tail so the tip curves up.

Notice how the last 2 rows have widened the opening. When you place the tail on the body, this acts as a lip that helps blend the tail into the shape of the body, rather than looking like a disjointed separate piece. Use this to your advantage when attaching the tail to achieve a seamless join (more info in Assembly section).

The increases in the rows are the top of the tail, and indicate where it will be joined to the middle of the dragon’s back.

THE EARS

Make 2 – Finished size: 95mm long x 75mm at the widest point.

R1: Using Body Colour, 5SC into a magic ring. (5)

Continue working in the round.

R2: 2SC in each st around. (10)

R3: *SC in next st. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (15)

R4: *SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (20)

R5: *SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (25)

R6: *SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st.* Repeat all around. (30)

R7: 2SC in next st. SC in rem 29 sts. (31)

R8: SC in next st. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 29 sts. (32)

R9: SC in next 2 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 29 sts. (33)

R10: SC in next 3 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 29 sts. (34)

R11: SC in next 4 sts. 2SC in next st. SC in rem 29 sts. (35)

Important note: Place a stitch marker in your increase stitches of row 11.

R12-14: SC in each st around. (35)

R15: SC in next 4 sts. SC next 2 sts tog. SC in rem 29 sts. (34)

R16: SC in next 3 sts. SC next 2 sts tog. SC in rem 29 sts. (33)

R17: SC in next 2 sts. SC next 2 sts tog. SC in rem 29 sts. (32)

R18: SC in next st. SC next 2 sts tog. SC in rem 29 sts. (31)

R19: SC next 2 sts tog. SC in rem 29 sts. (30)

R20: *SC in next 4 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (25)

R21: *SC in next 3 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (20)

R22: *SC in next 2 sts. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (15)

R23: *SC in next st. SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (10)

R24: *SC next 2 sts tog.* Repeat all around. (5)

Tie off, sew closed and leave a thread (30cm) for sewing.

Lay the ears flat so that the extra increases (marked in row 11) run down one side of the ear. The ears should look like the image below; asymmetrical with a bulge created by the increases on one side.

IMPORTANT: Now fold the ears into the correct shape. To do this, start with an ear orientated like the image below, with the extra increases running down the left-hand edge. Push the right-hand edge to collapse it into the ear. Do this on both ears.

Left: Correctly folded ear. Right: Folded ear compared to non-folded ear.

ASSEMBLY

A NOTE ON SYMMETRY

Examine your dragon from all angles when pinning, to make sure the pieces are symmetrically placed, and that the one half of your dragon is identical to the other half. It is important to place each piece as precisely as you can from the beginning. As you add more features like the horns and eyes, any inconsistencies will be amplified.

SEWING

All pieces should be sewn with a whip stitch. See the Tips section for more info.

PINNING

If you’re having trouble with pins that keep falling out, insert the pins at an angle to create tension.

THE HEAD

The ball of the back of the head should nestle into the neck opening of the body. The lip around the neck should lay flat on the surface of the head, to help the 2 shapes blend into each other.

IMPORTANT: When the body is upright, the head must be level and centered or the belly covering won’t fit properly. It should be positioned as if your dragon is looking straight ahead. Make sure the belly covering fits before you sew these pieces (remove some stuffing from the body if needed), then sew the head to the body.

THE BELLY COVERING

The narrower part is the top and goes on the dragon’s head, and the wider part is the bottom and goes on its body. Begin by lining up the top with the magic ring on the dragon’s head, and secure with a pin.

Then line up the bottom with the magic ring on the dragon’s body, and secure with a pin.

To make the dragon’s mouth, pin the top in a perfectly straight line across the front of the head, up to the 2 chains on either side.

When you reach the chains, make a sharp corner to create the dragon’s smile.

Stretch the belly covering slightly on either side of the neck area to pull the covering flush against the body. Pin on either side.

Add some pins down the sides of the cheeks and finish pinning the Belly Covering straight down either side of the body.

Sew in place, being careful to preserve the smiling shape of the mouth with those sharp corners.

 


FRONT LEGS – PART 1: PINNING


The arms are longer than the legs. They should not point straight forward but should rest on the ground.

IMPORTANT: Sit your dragon upright then lean the body forward a little to its final sitting position. Pin the front legs in place so that they touch the ground, supporting the body in this position.

The paws may rotate inwards to face each other at this stage, and that’s okay, as long as they touch the ground. If they don’t touch the ground, lean the body further forward or move the arms lower down the body until they do.

Squash them onto the body as you pin them in place, so that they blend into the shape of the body. Make sure they’re in the same place on either side of the body, and that the body is centred, not leaning to one side. Pin around the shoulders but do not pin the under-arms.

 

Before sewing the arms, pin the tail on then move onto Part 2 of the arms. If you don’t have enough pins, at least pin everything roughly in place to make sure it fits where it should.

THE TAIL

The tail should curve up at the tip. This is the correct orientation.

Sit your dragon on your work table then place the tail on the dragon’s bum, so that the tail also rests on the table.

Make sure it is centred with the body. Pin the top and the bottom first.

The lip around the tail’s opening should lie flush against the body. You can stretch the lip over the body as you pin it to blend the pieces together. To do this, insert a pin into a stitch on the tail, stretch it slightly, then push the pin into the body.

Sew the tail in place.

To fill up any hollow areas around the lip, you can add stuffing as you pin, or keep stuffing as you sew. For example, sew the bottom half of the tail in place, then add some stuffing to the area you’ve just sewn (you’ll have to remove some pins to put the stuffing in, then replace the pins). Sew the next quarter closed, then stuff, and so on. Do not overstuff. The tail should not bulge around the join, it should blend into the shape of the body. When stuffed correctly, the tail looks like it’s made in one piece with the body.

 

 


FRONT LEGS -PART 2: SEWING


Ensuring that the front legs and tail still touch the ground, sew the front legs in place using small stitches spaced closely together.

 

Do not sew the underarms. Sew around the shoulder, and to secure the stitches near the underarms, make a knot on either side of the un-sewn area, marked below with pins (arms and legs shown).

 

BACK LEGS

Your dragon should balance on its own at this point. Place the back legs on either side of the body, squashing them on as you pin so that they blend into the shape of the body.

Position the legs so they are right at the perimeter of the tail’s join, and so that they rest on the ground. Pin around the thigh, but not the inner thigh (in the same way as you left the underarm un-pinned).

Sew with small, closely spaced stitches.

 

Leave the inner thigh un-sewn, same as the arms. Make a knot on either side of the un-sewn area (marked with pins below) to secure the stitches

THE EYES

Place the eyes in the exact centre of the head, on the side of the face. Draw a line from your magic ring to the end of your last row, across the side of the face, then place the centre of the eye on this line. The eye should be exactly halfway between the tip of nose and the back of the head.

Rotation: the tips of the smile in the eye should touch the centre line of the head.

Make sure the cheek fits in the remaining space (see cheek assembly).

You may sew the loose ends from the smile line into the head to conceal them when attaching the eye to the head. Do not pack the loose ends under the eye when sewing – they will make it bulge from the head. The eye should lay flat against the head.

 

THE CHEEKS

Place the cheek to the bottom and to the side of the eye. It should not overlap the line where the head joins the body.

Pin and sew in place.

THE FINS

Do not stuff the fins or sew them closed.

Place the fins so they look evenly spaced down the centre back of the head and body.

Start with a medium fin directly above the eye in the centre of the head.

Place the smallest fin near the tip of the tail, and the second medium fin after it. All the large fins should fit in between.

Sew into front loops only to attach the fins. Sew all the way around the fin; around one side, then the other.

THE LONG CURVED HORNS

The curved horns should point TOWARDS EACH OTHER, at the same angle as each other. Place horns between the top 2 fins, centred in the space available above the eye.

To sew the horns, insert your needle into the same part of every stitch on the last row of the rim as you sew. When you look at the rim, you will see the back of the stitches because the rim has been flipped up. Each stitch makes an upside-down V-shape. Sew into one loop of each V to attach the horn.

THE SMALL HORN

Place the small horn on the top of the dragon’s muzzle, in the centre.

There should be about 6 or 7 rows open between the horn and the magic ring from the nose on the head.

Sew into the horn’s front loops only to attach.

THE NOSTRILS

Place the nostrils in between the front horn, and the corners of the mouth, at a 45 degree angle from the top fin.

They should not point directly forward or sideways, but in between.

Squash them down just a little to flatten the bottom, so they’ll blend into the face and look like part of it.

Yerine sabitleyin ve dikin. Borunun arkasını dikin ve öne geldiğinizde burun deliği kenarının altını aşağıya doğru dikin, ardından borunun arkasını takmayı bitirin. Doğru dikildiğinde, burun delikleri başlı gibi görünecektir.

 

KULAKLAR

Kulağı son 4 sırada kapalı dikin.

Son sıradan itibaren sayarak, kanattan yaklaşık 3 dikiş uzağa, 7. veya 8. sıraya bir kulak yerleştirin. Bir iğne ile sabitleyin, ardından kulağın alt ucunu yere doğru düz bir şekilde çekin.

Sabitlemek için 4. sıradaki kulağın altından dikerek son 4 sıranın etrafını sabitleyin ve dikin.

 

 

 

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